Posts Tagged ‘Travel’

Such a Thing

Sunday, July 25th, 2010

I wrote my grandmother a postcard from Paris.  I told her Rob and I were having fun, but also working hard to keep the students in line.  At the end, I added: “We have decided that there is, after all, such a thing as a stupid question.”

It sounds uncharitable, I know.  But you wouldn’t believe some of the gems we encountered on that trip.  Our favorite was the day we took the students to Versailles.  After touring the chateau, we stepped out into the garden, amid Baroque music and twinkling fountains, and surveyed the acres upon acres of gardens that, after four visits, I have still not completed touring.  Planes of green stretched as far as the eye could see, broken only by the spiderweb of white footpaths and the marked orbs of bright azure pools and verdant topiaries:

It was this hushed and grateful silence that our students broke to ask, first, if there were any shade in the gardens, and second, if there were any trees nearby.  The expression on Rob’s face must have caused the latter student to rethink his question, because he hastily added, “Well, I mean, I can see the trees down there . . . but are there any closer to us?”

Very wisely, Rob responded without sarcasm or condescension.  He just said, “I’m going to let you think about that.  I’ll come back to you in a few minutes.”  And we walked out to the gardens, where we found views like these:

Not only are there trees and shade in abundance, it’s actually nearly impossible to take a photo in the gardens that doesn’t include both.

Okay, that was one of the worst questions.  But they kept coming throughout the trip.  The students didn’t know where the subway stop was for our hotel, even though we’d returned there multiple times a day.  They wanted to know when the Arc de Triomphe was built a few minutes after someone had made a presentation and handed out brochures with that exact information.  We got used to repeating every directive three or four times, as in: “We’re going to Villa Savoye today.” (“Where are we going?”) “We’re going to Villa Savoye today.” (“Oh, we aren’t going there tomorrow?”) “We’re going to Villa Saoye today.” (“Should I get my Villa Savoye materials, then?”)

It was a minor annoyance; as Mike likes to remind us, if they get on our nerves, hey, they’re getting on our nerves in Paris.  We patiently helped them navigate the subway, look up pertinent information and hear the itineraries, again and again.  We saved the shocked laughter for our private kir sessions, and we reminded ourselves that while this was in some ways a dream vacation, it was also a job.

And I kept thinking about the questions even after we got back, since they are the same kinds of questions I encounter in the classroom on a near-daily basis.  What page are we on?  When is this due?  What was the answer to number 7?  Something about the presence of a teacher makes us turn our brains off.  We are so reluctant to look for the answers ourselves, to trust our own logic and intelligence rather than having the solution spoon-fed to us.  Here I include myself; I have only recently begun forcing myself to pause before I send any e-mail with a question in it, and often I’ll find that I do know how to find the answer – it’s just that it involves more work than simply asking someone else for it.

It’s so easy to be philosophical at the beach, far away from the day-to-day frustrations and joys of the classroom.  So, while I’m thus removed from the situation, I’m on the hunt for a humorous and compassionate way to deter these inane questions, the questions that make me want to climb the walls of the classroom and breathe consuming fire on it.  I like Rob’s response, but it would be tedious to repeat many times a day.  Maybe having another student answer, as proof that it is possible to pay attention?  I’m afraid that might be too embarrassing for both parties.  I’ll keep thinking.  Feel free to join in.

A Tip for Musicians in Paris

Thursday, July 15th, 2010

Sorry for the long silence, everyone – we went away for the weekend and came back to find our Internet service had stopped working.  Troubleshooting with multiple phone companies is exactly the barrel of laughs you might have expected.  Cavalier, in particular, has lived up to its name with depressing irony.  So my next few posts are leftovers that never got published before the Great Internet Debacle . . .

For a music teacher, I live a remarkably music-free life.  Aside from the hours I spend in instruction and performance in my studio and church, I rarely listen or play much on my own.  I’m not sure why.  I think it began after I moved back home from New York; I found I had heard enough noise there to last through a very  extended silence, and I didn’t miss music even on long car trips and at home by myself.  Over the years I came to enjoy it again, but my laziness usually wins out: it takes effort, even the smallest sort, to put something on while I’m otherwise occupied.

[Aside: The other thing is that, as a visual learner, I cannot abide clutter in any form, and music feels like clutter unless I am focusing solely on it. I really do enjoy my students’ playing (and my own, when I can carve out some time for it) but it’s because it’s the only noise around.  Even a wiggly or talkative sibling in the room can ruin a lesson for me.  In the car, if I’m driving, I focus so much on the music that I’m afraid I won’t be able to pay attention; my last speeding ticket, several years ago, was the result of a rare trip with the radio on.  And my biggest complaint is to restaurants that blare a soundtrack so distracting I can’t converse.  Even sidewalk cafes feel the need to wire the outdoors so that you can’t possibly enjoy a moment of silence, save the tinkling of glasses and forks and the ocean’s swell of human voices enjoying each other's company.]

All of this is to say that it’s shocking and saddening how often I forget what music really means to me.  So it was an unexpected and memorable surprise to discover the Cite de la Musique at the Parc de la Villete one afternoon during our trip.  I wandered in to pass the time while the students were sketching in the park; I ended up staying long after everyone else had left, exiting only reluctantly when it closed.

(The Parc de la Villette, of course, is the sprawling complex of museums, lawns, and carnival rides that turned a seedy area into a bustling family-friendly mecca.  It’s punctuated with bright red follies that are a fun, lively, challenging example of deconstructivism, and I may have just a tiny crush on the architect. A tiny one.)

Though my French is pretty good (and was at its peak after nearly two weeks of constant practice) I most appreciated that the museum was set up multilingually.  An audio guide is included in the admission price – an unobtrusive pair of headphones wired to an iPod-sized device that hangs from your neck or handbag.  Throughout the museum, there are short audio samples – instrument demonstrations and soundtracks to accompany the videos on the screens throughout.  You just enter the number that accompanies the headphones symbol next to the exhibit you want to learn about.  And there are literally hundreds of them – everything from historical background to critique and performance.  I wandered through the displays of instruments –grouped by period, family and geographical location – in awe.  It was an amazing experience.  Here are a few of my favorite photos:

A huge bell – taller than me.  Probably a good thing this one was behind glass; it would have been really tempting to hit it with the clapper!

Intricate detailing inside a stringed instrument – a lute, I believe.

An antique wind instrument – much like a saxophone – with anthropomorphic tendencies.

One of the first keyboard instruments; clavichord, I think (I should have taken notes!)  I thought it was interesting that the colors of the keys are now reversed.

A guitar with gorgeous inlay patterns.

My favorite!  I think this guy is some kind of recorder.  Love his toady face.

Part of a huge set of Asian instruments; I think she’s part of the side of a huge gong.

Obviously, for a musician, the Cite de la Musique is an imperative stop on your Paris journey!  I hope you get to see it someday.

The Treasures of Brussels

Wednesday, June 30th, 2010

If you’re in Paris for the first time, or even the second or third, you probably won’t want to go anywhere else.  But after that, you start to get adventurous, especially if you grew up admiring Hercule Poirot. And then you realize that Brussels is only a 90-minute train ride away.  And that Brussels looks like this:

And to sustain you through the miles of walking between Italianate Flemish, Brabant Gothic and the rest, just think of all the things to eat for which Belgium is famous.  We came up with ten:

1. Beer. It does SO qualify as a food if you were raised in my family.  Our bishop recently confirmed that fact.  (I’m not joking.  Would I joke about beer?)

2. Endives. Best enjoyed wrapped in ham and under a blanket of au gratin goodness, comme ca:

3. Stoemp, a mashed-potato dish with flecks of root vegetables, herbs and / or bacon.  The above was a very simple version.

4. Chocolate. It was on every corner, made into every shape and color and size.  Its fame is well-deserved.

5. Butter biscuits. Dandoy is the most famous of the biscuiteries, and we went a little crazy in there, buying varieties flavored with ginger, spices, orange zest, almonds and even Earl Grey tea.

6. Mussels. I actually had better mussels in Paris, but these were still quite good, especially the broth flavored with herbs and wine:

7. Frites. These are not just French fries; they are hand-cut, double-fried, crunchy-delicious works of art.  Local custom dictates dipping them in mayonnaise (shudder) but I think just a sprinkle of salt is best.

8. Beer. (We like beer.)  Did I mention that every variety has a special type of glass?  Well, it does.

9. Waffles. Although Rob pointed out that he’s never had a bad Belgian waffle, this was the best I’d ever had by far.  It was made from wheat flour, cooked until delightfully crispy on the outside, and topped with creme chantilly and kriek, a smoky-sweet sour cherry confit.

10. Petits Choux, the sprouts for which the city is famous.  Unfortunately, we didn’t see many places that featured them, so we left Brussels without having eaten Brussels spouts.  Quel dommage! I suppose we’ll just have to go back someday.

A Deep Breath

Monday, June 28th, 2010

Paris was, well, Paris.  Lovely, dreamy, even when it was cold and gray and en greve.

Now we’re back for a couple of days before our next trip.  Today I caught up on e-mail (which I hate) and did laundry (which I love.)  The cat is glued to my side.  Rain is falling, at long last, on my parched patch of earth.

After two weeks of rich French food, it was a pure pleasure to have swiss chard for lunch, with just a drizzle of olive oil and peppery tarragon vinegar for flavor.

Today feels like a huge, deep breath of home.

Nice to Be Missed

Thursday, June 17th, 2010

This is a good example of what cat ownership is generally like, but it’s turned up considerably whenever we’ve been away.  Poor Maia.  She’s just getting used to our being back, and we leave tonight for two weeks in France, after which time I cringe to think of the damage she’ll do to our legs and couches.

I have some teacher-related posts lined up while we’re gone, but I might surprise you with a photo or two, so stay tuned — and please pray for safe travels and easygoing, responsible students!