Posts Tagged ‘cooking’

Inspiration in the Summer Kitchen

Friday, August 13th, 2010

Just a few weeks left to pull my life together before school starts.  As much as I love to cook, putter and even clean in the kitchen, planning meals in a busy schedule can get quickly overwhelming.  Mark Bittman to the rescue!

Last summer I discovered 101 Simple Salads, loved it, and promptly forgot about it.  Yesterday I re-discovered it and got a little smarter about processing all that genius — I imported it into Word so I could search for the ingredients I already had, and found I could make the very last entry:

101. Cook a pot of short-grain rice. While it’s still hot, toss with raw grated zucchini, fermented black beans, sriracha, sesame oil, sake and a touch of rice vinegar. Add bits of leftover roast chicken or pork if you have it, and pass soy sauce at the table.

They all read that way — a handful of ingredients, simple preparation, and surprising flavor combinations.  I used a cup of uncooked brown rice to two cups water, a mammoth zucchini, three tablespoons of natural miso and one of everything else.  I was prepared to adjust, but it seemed pretty near perfect to me.  Good for dinner during a fast, and good for August when the CSA haul is squash-heavy.  Even good, still pleasantly crunchy-chewy, for lunch the next day.

If I had more spare time, I’d probably spend most of it marveling at the genius of Mark Bittman.  He’s an old-style cook, the kind who just thinks and breathes food, never measures anything and can make dinner delicious and beautiful even without bacon.  Here are some more keepers, all composed of quick recipes, breezy asides, and the intoxicating whiff of possibility:

101 Picnic Dishes

54. Make a cheese ball: Mash together equal parts good grated Cheddar, crumbled blue and cream cheese, maybe thinned with a little sour cream. Shape into a ball and roll in fresh chopped herbs and/or hazelnuts. Take Triscuits. You think people won’t eat this?

101 Meals on the Grill

37. Moist grilled chicken breast? Yes: Pound chicken breast thin, top with chopped tomato, basil and Parmesan; roll and skewer and grill over not-high heat until just done.

101 Summer Meals

93. Cut up Italian sausage into chunks and brown in a little olive oil until just about done. Dump in a lot of seedless grapes and, if you like, a little slivered garlic and chopped rosemary. Cook, stirring, until the grapes are hot. Serve with bread.

101 Side Dishes (for Thanksgiving)

15. Thai Squash Soup: Simmer cubed winter squash, minced garlic, chili and ginger in coconut milk, plus stock or water to cover, until soft. Purée if you like. Just before serving, add chopped cilantro, lime juice and zest, and toasted chopped peanuts.

101 Appetizers (for Christmas)

74. Boil frozen or fresh edamame in pods for 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with coarse salt. For this they charge you eight bucks.

A Deep Breath

Monday, June 28th, 2010

Paris was, well, Paris.  Lovely, dreamy, even when it was cold and gray and en greve.

Now we’re back for a couple of days before our next trip.  Today I caught up on e-mail (which I hate) and did laundry (which I love.)  The cat is glued to my side.  Rain is falling, at long last, on my parched patch of earth.

After two weeks of rich French food, it was a pure pleasure to have swiss chard for lunch, with just a drizzle of olive oil and peppery tarragon vinegar for flavor.

Today feels like a huge, deep breath of home.

Cooking = Salvation

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

This is the first week of Lent, so I’ve been at church by night and trying to catch up on school by day.  As food for thought, however, you might be interested in this post I wrote for my current grad course, Child & Adolescent Development, about the childhood obesity crisis:

I blame parents.

Easy to say for one who is not a parent!  But I have heard too many caregivers lament that their child “will only eat” macaroni and cheese or hot dogs.  As one of my classmates points out, when given the choice, any child (or human, if allowed to act on his basest impulses) will gravitate toward the sweeter, more calorie-dense food.  It’s our instinct, derived from the days when such foods were very hard to come by — restricted to finding a patch of berries or a hive of honey.  Today, as others have already stated, such foods are actually cheaper (with externalized costs, of course) than nutritious foods, and they are certainly easier to serve.  But since when do we allow a child’s preference to govern his rules for living?  We don’t let him choose whether or not to brush his teeth, go to school, or say his prayers.  Why would we let him choose what’s on the dinner menu, beyond such reasonable choices as “green beans or broccoli?”

Many of you have indicated causes of childhood obesity with which I can’t argue: working parents, busy schedules, child-centered advertising.  I think there is one more vastly important factor: the demise of home cooking.  Statistics show unilaterally that fewer and fewer people cook for themselves — even when “cooking” is widened to mean putting together a sandwich from purchased ingredients.  Children are not learning how to come home from school, cut up carrot sticks and peel an orange — and, at a later age, to saute onions and garlic for a sauce or set bread to rise in a warm place.  They certainly are not learning where the carrots and onions come from, when to plant them and how long to wait before pulling them up.  I was lucky enough to be raised by parents who did everything themselves, but I constantly meet people my age and older who say they can’t (or just don’t) cook, and that number seems to rise exponentially as age decreases.

At this point I’d like to surrender my point of view to two gentlemen who are far more convincing and knowledgeable than I.  One is Michael Pollan, who has already been referenced several times on this board.  Please do read all of his books; they are wonderful.  However, this article (it’s long, but worth it) from the New York Times Magazine last year reinforces my argument by illuminating one of the strangest dichotomies in modern times: the huge popularity of cooking shows on television and the dearth of skilled home cooks.  We spend untold amounts of time and money watching Martha Stewart, Rachael Ray and Emeril, but we are less and less likely to translate that enthusiasm into our own kitchens and dining rooms, mostly because we haven’t seen and modeled that behavior from a young age.

However, on that note, the second reference I want to make is to this excellent lecture (about 20 minutes) by Jamie Oliver.  Yes, Jamie Oliver, the English chef / television personality.  It turns out he’s also a compassionate, dedicated humanitarian who is shocked and pained by the current crisis in child obesity, and determined to do all he can to alleviate it.  For me, the most moving moment in the film is when he confronts an obese mother with a dining-room table covered with pizza, corn dogs and sodas — all the food she typically feeds her two (also obese) children in a week.  “You are killing your children,” Oliver says simply.  It cuts like a knife, but it’s absolutely true.  This mother, by failing to pass on the skill set she never learned herself — how to make nutritious, satisfying, diverse meals — is setting her children up for severe health problems and an early death.  Sobering, but verifiable fact.

But, as Oliver points out, this crisis is entirely preventable.  Children who couldn’t identify a beet or a tomato (watch the video, seriously) can be taught to.  Children who will only eat macaroni and cheese can be taught to love spinach (and not only, Mrs. Seinfeld, through trickery.)  They love to help in the garden or in the kitchen, and they are far more likely to try diverse foods (and thus to learn weight-management behavior) when they have participated in the entire process of harvesting and preparing food.  We can fix this, one household at a time.

The Season of Plenty

Friday, October 9th, 2009

It almost seems a crime not to eat local in the early fall.  There is so much bounty at every turn.  Take for instance, this sweet potato:

Sweet Potato

Yes, that is one single sweet potato.  After admiring it for several days, I peeled and boiled it, and mashed it with butter, cream and spices, beat in a few eggs, and poured it into a pie shell for the following masterpiece:

Sweet Potato Pie

The pecans were an afterthought, because I tried blind-baking the crust only to have the edges slump down over themselves.  Storebought pie crusts are awful.  I only buy them because the ones I make myself are even worse.  I always end up cursing the dough, which is either too sticky or too crumbly.  It’s no use giving me advice, either.  I swear, I have tried every. single. method out there!

I know it’s trendy, but I really wish I were better and more consistent at preserving local foods in season.  I can a little, I freeze a little, but for the most part I just eat what’s available, and we’re coming up on a long stretch when that will be next to nothing.  I’ve wanted for several years now to have a winter garden, but that means planting in midsummer, and I never seem to get it together.  It makes me just sick to buy produce from halfway around the world — the fossil fuels are the main reason, but the cardboard flavor doesn’t help.

If I think about this sort of thing for too long, it makes me really depressed.  I try to remember that I’m doing the best I can with what I have.  Last night, what I had was sweet cream, freshly churned butter, and smooth speckled brown eggs from the farm.  “Local” spices.*  Blackstrap molasses from our Thanksgiving trip to Smithfield, Virginia last year.  A daddy-sized sweet potato.  And yes, a pie crust made from hydrogenated vegetable oil and refined flour.  It was still delicious.

*They were local when I bought them on the island of St. Lucia last summer.  I can’t really live without nutmeg and vanilla, so I figured it was better to support the local industries there than McCormick & Co. back home. And have you ever seen nutmeg growing on a tree?  It’s unreal!

Cheese to Write Home About

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

Well, this is turning out to be a dairy-rich week.  You’d think, from these posts, that I’m lounging around all day, surrounded by tubs of cheese and butter.  In reality, I have turned down seeing two girlfriends this week.  I’ve been getting to school by 7:30, leaving around 2, coming home for lunch and a power nap, teaching lessons until 8, and then facing a wreck of a house and a most aggrieved cat.  Every year I forget how much work it is to teach, especially if the classes are new (this year, 2 out of my 3 are.)

How do I deal with stress?  I cook.  Seriously.  It is such a gift to be able to focus on something simple and beautiful that has the added bonus of being sustenance for your next busy day (or two.)

We buy raw milk from an out-of-state farmer (it’s illegal here in Maryland . . . socialists . . . ) and although it is the most delicious and healthy milk you can find, it has one disadvantage: it spoils quickly.  Purists will tell you that soured raw milk is actually better for you, as it has more beneficial bacteria and is more easily digestible.  They’re probably right.  But I just can’t drink it sour.  So when the milk goes bad, I usually have to pour it out.  At $7 a gallon.

No more!  I discovered recently that raw milk separates when it sours.  This means that when you heat it, it separates very easily into ricotta curds and clear whey.  (If yours doesn’t separate, simply add about 1/4 cup of white vinegar; this won’t affect the taste, but will help the milk curdle more easily.  This is also how you’d make ricotta from sweet milk.)  Strain the curds through a yogurt strainer or colander lined with several thicknesses of cheesecloth.  You now have sour ricotta cheese, which can be used to make this cheesecake, which will CHANGE YOUR LIFE: (more…)